What is a Pashmina scarf?
It was historically revered by kings and emperors, and still remains one of the world’s most luxurious materials. However, the pashmina scarf is an often misunderstood garment. As its prominence spread from the awe-inspiring valleys of the Himalayas to the lavish royal courts of Europe, its meaning has become convoluted over time. Many fashion enthusiasts have found themselves wondering what exactly a pashmina scarf is. Below we'll be sharing the extraordinary origins and illustrious history of pashmina.
What Is Pashmina?
Pashmina is the name of the luxurious wool woven from pashm, the ultra fine fleece undercoat of the chyangra goat. These goats can only be found in the high altitude mountain valleys and plateaus of the Himalayas that span across Tibet, Nepal, the Ladakh region of India, and the Qinghai province of China. With altitudes reaching between 3600 and 4500 meters, or 14,000 feet above sea level, these breathtaking landscapes boast a unique microclimate that has instigated the natural development of undercoats that adapt to the extreme weather.
Pashm is one of nature’s marvels. Chyangra goats must withstand temperatures as low as to -50°C with windchill during the winter, making pashm one of the most insulating fleeces on the planet. When warmer days arrive in the spring, the goats begin to shed their undercoats. Nomadic herdsmen known as Changpa pluck or comb the goats to create pashm, which is then refined and turned into one of the world's most exquisite fabrics.
Pashmina is highly coveted for its incredible softness, warmth, and featherlight weight. A pashmina fiber is about 1/6th of the diameter of a regular fiber, while providing even more warmth than sheep’s wool. Scarves and shawls can be made of pure pashmina, or contain a blend of 70% pashmina wool and 30% silk.
The name pashm has Urdu roots, but is derived from the Farsi word for wool. Eventually the name pashmina was given to the intricate scarves and shawls woven from pashm. Over time the name pashmina has turned into a synonym for any kind of shawl, but connoisseurs will know that this splendid material can only come from one location.
Where Does Pashmina Come From?
To be considered genuine pashmina, the wool must come from a chyangra goat. They can also be called capra hircus, changthangi goats, Tibetan goats, northern goats, or pashmina goats.
Chyangra goats have been herded by the Changpa, or northern people, for centuries. These nomadic tribes live alongside chyangra goats in the remote valleys of the Himalayas. The land is too arid and the weather too extreme for agriculture, making sheep herding the ideal occupation.
The Changpa collect pashm each spring and send the raw material to artisans for refinement and embellishment. The arduous journey takes pashm from the high altitude mountaintops of the Himalayas down rocky trails and off-beaten paths into Nepali and Kashmiri studios.
Raw pashm comes mixed with dirt and coarse hairs from the goat’s outer hair and must be separated, cleaned, combed, and spun before it can turn into the luxurious fabric the world adores. The sorting process is long and meticulous; it takes wool from three goats to make one shawl, as only about 35% of wool from one goat is deemed usable. Once the fabric has been perfected, artisans can then dye, weave, and embroider intricate patterns to create a stunning pashmina.
The History Of Pashmina Scarves
Pashmina creation is one of the world’s oldest and most revered methods of craftsmanship. Kashmiri and Nepali artisans have been creating pashmina scarves for centuries; the first record of Kashmiri shawls date back to the 3rd century BC. However, the industry experienced a boom in the 15th century after pashmina scarves were introduced to international markets via trade routes in Baghdad, Cairo, and Constantinople. The magnificent fabric and lavish designs enchanted Asian and European royalty and aristocrats, from Mughal emperors and Sikh maharajas to French kings and queens.
Early pashmina manufacturing techniques were long and elaborate. It could take weavers up to three years to create a single shawl, due to the intricate nature of the patterns woven onto the pure pashmina fabric on a tapestry. Over time, the system was streamlined and new embroidery techniques allowed weavers to create beautiful designs in six to eight months. These ancient tapestry shawls were known as kani shawls, and were always the most expensive and exclusive to own as they required the most skill to create. Newer embroidered designs were named amlikar shawls, and were more accessible because of their simpler creation process. Amlikar shawls reached their peak popularity in the 18th century, after becoming a staple piece for Asian and European nobility.
Kashmir has been the global hub for pashmina creation since the 16th century. The artisans have been using weaving techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation, and are the creators of some of the world’s most recognizable patterns. What the west knows as a paisley print was originally developed by Kashmiri pashmina weavers, and is locally known as badam. Other popular motifs include the floral buta, the striped khat-rastor lahariya, or the jungle-inspired shikargah. Pashminas must be treated with natural dyes to maintain their softness and durability, as chemicals will ruin the cloudlike texture. Artisans create vibrant colors with dyes derived from natural ingredients such as indigo, saffron, kermes, and safflower. Finally, the delicate embroidery is crafted out of cashmere staple yarns or lustrous silk threads.
The European demand for pashminas initially boosted the Kashmiri industry, but it would eventually lead to a temporary downfall. Cheap western-made replicas began cropping up throughout Europe and America. This led to a devaluation of authentic pashminas, and is still the reason why the definition of pashmina has become diluted. Fortunately the fake pashmina trend died out, and Kashmiri and Nepali artisans were able to reestablish their global authority for genuine pashmina creation.
Pashmina vs Cashmere
Pashmina and cashmere are two materials that are often considered interchangeable, but there are a few distinct differences between the two.
The confusion is understandable, as cashmere is another luxurious wool derived from Asian mountain goats. Its name is an English interpretation of the Kashmir region that has always been linked to pashmina creation. And since pashminas were also known as Kashmir shawls, cashmere turned into a blanket term for all items made from wool from the region, including pashminas.
The key difference between pashmina and cashmere is their animal origins. Genuine pashmina is only derived from chyangra goats, while cashmere can come from several different breeds of mountain goat. These breeds can be found across numerous locations in Asia, spanning from Pakistan to Mongolia, and even the mountainous highlands of New Zealand. Essentially, pashmina is rarer and more exclusive because of its singular chyangra goat origin.
There are also a few tactile differences between cashmere and pashmina, though they would be difficult to distinguish to the untrained eye. Pashmina is slightly finer, softer, and warmer than cashmere. A pashmina is usually between 10 and 15 microns in diameter, while cashmere is between 15 and 19 microns. The materials also have different manufacturing techniques. Pashmina must be handspun because of its ultra fine and delicate nature, while the slightly more durable cashmere can be machine spun. The traditional twill tapestry weaving technique used to create pashmina leaves the finished material with a subtle luster that cashmere lacks.
One could consider pashmina as a variation of cashmere, but it would definitely reign as the finest, softest, and most resplendent form.
Pashmina Care
Pashmina is an extremely high quality fabric that can maintain a beautiful appearance for decades, as long as it is treated with proper care.
Make sure you place your pashmina in a location free of moisture and natural light to avoid dampness and discoloration. Give your pashmina extra protection and keep moths at bay by storing it in a dustbag.
When it comes time to clean your pashmina, dry cleaning or hand washing is recommended. Make sure you wash your pashmina in cold water and use a gentle cleaning solution, such as baby shampoo. Pashminas should be laid flat to dry to avoid creasing. If you would like to create a perfectly smooth appearance you can use an iron on a low heat setting, just be sure to lay a piece of paper between the iron and pashmina for protection.
To own a pashmina is to own a time-honored artisanal masterpiece. Learn more about this sumptuous material today.