Aptly named the fiber of kings, pashmina has a long and prestigious history that spans over four centuries. The talented artisans of Kashmir and Nepal have been weaving the magnificently soft wool into shawls and blankets since the 15th century, rightly earning a reputation as some of the most skilled weavers on the planet.
The fruits of their labor were once reserved for royalty only, but now pashmina is available to all admirers of luxury fashion. Find out how the world’s most exclusive shawls made their way from the rugged valleys of the Himalayas to the shelves of global luxury boutiques by reading about the illustrious history of pashmina below!
The Discovery Of Pashmina: 15th Century
Pashmina shawls can be traced all the way back to 15th century India. Zain-ul-Abidin, the sultan of Kashmir at the time, was first introduced by tapestry-woven shawls from Turkistan (present day Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan). Impressed by their fine quality, he invited Turkic weavers into Kashmir to train locals as equally skilled artisans. Many historians credit Zain-ul-Abidin as the ruler who laid the foundations for Kashmir’s famous pashmina industry.
However, it was the Mughal Emperor Akbar that truly created the demand for pashmina shawls. Inspired by the fine wool shawls of Iranian empires, Emperor Akbar began commissioning shawls made specifically out of the pashmina wool native to his land. Akbar knew from the start that pashmina was a material like no other. He had never encountered any other wool as fine, warm, or soft.
Akbar’s original pashmina shawls were an instant hit in the Mughal court, and were soon a part of every royal woman’s wardrobe. In fact, pashmina was exclusively made for Mughal royals until the collapse of the empire in the 19th century.
Eventually, pashmina was traded further into Asia. It quickly became a favorite of other royals. Iranian rulers traded their old wool shawls for pashmina, and the legendary Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh brought pashmina into the rest of India. Shawls also became a traditional dowry gift, alongside precious jewels, for noble families in India and Nepal.
Weaving Innovation: 18th Century
Increased demand for pashmina shawls brought about improved weaving techniques. Early techniques were complex, with some shawls taking over 3 years to make! As time passed, embroiderers began experimenting with different stitching techniques, such as the chain stitch, and adding extra looms to their workspace. These steps reduced the weaving time of a single shawl to 3-6 months.
Over the centuries, different embroidery techniques and shawl styles were invented. Original kani shawls remained the most intricate and exquisite, and therefore the most expensive and time-consuming to create. Amlikar shawls were a faster and more affordable option that became popular in the 18th century. This era also saw the creation of the rare do-runga shawl; these two-toned shawls had unique embroidered colors on both sides of the shawl, and were a favorite of royal families.
All of this extra production meant that the pashmina weaving industry began to expand outside of Kashmir and Nepal. Leaders didn’t want to have to depend on just one small region for pashmina production. Maharaja Ranjit Singh tried to establish a manufacturing facility in Lahore, modern day Pakistan, while British colonists attempted their own version in Ludhiana, Punjab. None of these endeavors were successful. The new weavers simply didn’t have the intrinsic skills that Nepali and Kashmiri weavers had learned from their forebears.
Global Prominence: 19th Century
Pashmina was first introduced to the west when Emperor Napoleon presented his wife Josephine with an opulent shawl. The Empress immediately fell in love with the beautiful embroidery and sumptuous texture. She soon ordered shawls to be made for all of her friends in the French court, and the pashmina trend quickly spread throughout France and the rest of Europe.
This global prominence was both a blessing and a curse to the pashmina industry. It brought the fabric and its talented weavers the global recognition they deserved, but it also marked the start of the counterfeit pashmina industry. Just like the failed manufacturing facilities in Lahore and Ludhiana, no other regions were ever able to replicate the sublime hand feel of authentic pashmina.
Time-Honored Prestige: 21st Century
Authentic pashmina remains one of the world’s most sought-after fabrics, and is still handwoven in Kashmir and Nepal. Both regions have always worked hard to preserve the traditions of artisanal weaving and maintain the prestigious reputation of pashmina. The craftsmanship is so revered that vintage pashminas are now displayed in museums across the globe.
Pashmina is much more than just a luxurious fabric. It’s a one-of-a-kind material that comes with a rich history and an unparalleled level of craftsmanship.
Own an extraordinary slice of history with pashmina. Shop our collection of genuine pashmina for men today!